Calvin Klein Menswear Spring 2011
“The good news included a jacket-pants-and-tee outfit in sand tones that was as elegant as anything Zucchelli has ever designed, a broad-shouldered suit with a gray marbled fleck, and the cloudburst version that closed the show. Other looks, like the shiny, oversize chino shirts, suffered from a slew of strange proportions. Cutoff tops seemed intended to suggest a gridiron player’s workout wear but instead called to mind the Hulk’s castoffs.
The athletic theme also showed up in vertically and horizontally striped tops and pants that created the illusion of a single piece; they looked like they were waiting to be branded with a product, like a Formula One driver’s coveralls. Zucchelli excels at exploring that sort of futuristic, man-as-automaton notion, but there was something literal about this take that felt less sophisticated than usual. “
MRROW! Someone has their Bitcheeo’s that morning!
Not that the CK brand needs any defending from us and we’re all for bitchy fashion commentary (of course), but you really have to stretch to work in Hulk and NASCAR references to a typically minimalist Calvin Klein collection. And while we share the disdain for the cropped shirts, we can at least remember a brief period when they were a fad for guys in the early ’80s. These were a reference to that, not the Hulk. Nor do we share the take on the matching tops and bottoms that apparently give the illusion of a jumpsuit. They don’t really look all that much like jumpsuits to us, NASCAR or otherwise.
To us, it looks, as we said, like a typically minimalist Calvin Klein collection with a few twists – Plaid! Coming out of nowhere!- to make it interesting.
And y’know, we wouldn’t be a bit surprised if those cropped shirts made a comeback. There are a lot more visible abs to be seen now than there were 30 years ago and the idea of showing them off while remaining dressed would probably appeal to a lot of the more narcissistic guys out there.
[Photo Credit: firstVIEW.com]