Givenchy Spring 2010 Haute Couture
“Ricardo Tisci, Givenchy’s current couturier, staged the Spring 2010 collection in the same grand ballroom, where so many YSL shows were held. Likewise, the images of this show recalled the legendary 1976 Carmen collection by the late Saint Laurent himself.
Nonetheless, the sense of elegant modernism throughout was impressive, from the opening tuxedo pantsuit, delightfully jazzed up at the waist with ostrich, vulture and nandou feathers, to a sublime bolero in similar feathers, this time in powdery hues. Tisci’s fashion is rarely easy to wear, but the sense of catering to a demanding stylistic elite is at times breathtaking.
Every detail was carefully thought out in his show, right down to the trompe l’oeil minimalist off-white booties. Or even before the show – Tisci’s invitations are miniature works or art in themselves. This season, the latest collector’s item was an hallucinogenic image of goddess’s face, back lit curtains and Pop Art squiggles, capturing the exotic mood of this arty fashion moment.
“Beauty, early ’70s Paris, erotica and, of course, Serge Lutens,” said Tisci after the show, referring to the French perfumer and filmmaker, who created the makeup and hair for Vogue shoots by photographers as esteemed as Richard Avedon, Bob Richardson and Irving Penn.”
We loved this collection. The looks get more and more luxurious and rich until you reach the final look, which is just stunning in its use of texture and color. In fact, the whole collection is so textural that you just want to reach out and touch these garments. In addition, it felt modern and edgy in a way that some of the other couture collections only wished they could be (not Valentino naming Valentino any Valentino names Valentino). Once again, we have to complain a bit about the styling, though. We just hate it when every girl is styled to look exactly alike. We suppose the argument behind it is that you’re supposed to look at the clothes but there’s a robotic, creepy Stepfordness about it that just grates.
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